Proper Handling and Installation of Drywall

Drywall is one of the most used construction materials in many projects. You can find them in many commercial and residential buildings, often utilized to partition spaces into rooms. Knowing how to handle and install the material correctly is necessary.

Before You Begin

Ensure that you gather the necessary materials and equipment. You'll have to consider the various components underneath the drywall, like wires, cables, or other sensitive structural elements. You can install a drywall access panel for convenience if you need access to these parts.

Drywall Selection

Typically, you can find drywall in 4' by 8' sheets. Even these more significant sheets usually take less effort because there are fewer joints to bond. They tend to break faster when you transport them to the work site. Although you can install drywall horizontally, you can also do it vertically when you need it.

The most popular thickness is 1/2", with thicknesses ranging from 1/4" to 5/8". Most contractors utilize the 1/4" sheets as overlays to the current drywall. It doesn't have the design to be in new construction. For specific circumstances, review your area's building standards.

Consider the drywall's composition. Use drywall compositions that are appropriate for the space you will install them. Take "green rock" as an example. It is a moisture-resistant product, and you can use it for placement in high moisture environments like garages and bathrooms. Before deciding, visit your local construction supply store.

It could be excessive to apply green rock to the entire property. It is beneficial to do so in high-moisture places like bathrooms. Green rock drywall is not the best choice in locations prone to water or moisture. Instead, utilize a glass-reinforced cement board to surround the bathroom or shower tiles.

Installation Site Inspection

You will need to prepare the area, so there are no difficulties during or after installing your drywall. You should remove anything restricting the new drywall sheets from fitting flat on the studs, such as existing drywall, screws, nails, and other fasteners.

Ensure that there is nothing that will restrict your installation before you proceed. Check for insects like termites, loose blockage, moisture or water damage, and other issues. Steel studs rather than wood ones shouldn't surprise you. Steel studs are usually good because they offer strength and are fire- and termite-resistant. The only distinction with steel studs is that you must hang the drywall with drywall screws rather than nails.

You must check the insulation stapled to the studs. Patch paper backing rips with Kraft tape to increase energy efficiency. Then, fill in any crevices and cracks on exterior walls with triple-expanding foam. Consider choosing foams that are long-lasting, solid, water-resistant, and non-shrinking.

Drywall Measuring and Cutting

You can typically install drywall in ceilings and walls. The installation procedure varies depending on where you will place your installation.

Walls

Step 1: Utilizing a stud finder, mark the locations of all the studs. Don't rely on the typical spacing of your stud, which is 16 or 24 inches. A smart option is to place masking tape along the flooring. At the same time, you display and mark the midpoint of every stud with a high visibility marker. Some studs are 1/2" off on either side, often owing to shoddy carpentry work by the builder.

Step 2: To check whether the wall's end component will fit in the middle of a stud, measure it against a section of drywall. Once more, you'll probably need to cut some material to center the end elements onto a stud.

Step 3: When cutting drywall, mark a line on one side of the paper with a utility knife and a T-square. Position your leg on the end of the cut that is not the cut. You may swiftly draw the piece of drywall into you while simultaneously pushing your knee outwardly, snapping the material in a straight line. With your razor, trim the remaining paper along the brand-new crease.

Step 4: Before placing the drywall over any strapping or joists, run a dab of glue down each one. Do it just before you hang the drywall. Raise the drywall onto the wall with assistance, and then use the drill to fasten five screws into the stud located in the drywall panel's middle. Start at the center, then move outward.

Each stud needs five screws for insertion. Extra screws may be helpful in some circumstances. However, they are typically unnecessary because they will call for further mudding and sanding, which could harm the finish. Use a spring-loaded screw drywall dimpler, if possible.

Step 5: Use a drywall saw to make cuts along asymmetrical apertures, such as arches. Proceed to install drywall over window and door apertures. Later, you can trim away any extra drywall. Furthermore, do not glue panels to the frame around openings yet, and ensure that no seams coincide with a door or window side.

Placing the drywall up against the pipe and giving the back a little tap with a flat piece of wood to create dimples is an excellent installation technique for drywall over pipes that protrude from the wall.

Step 6: Remove the drywall and cut a precise hole along the indentation with a drywall hole saw or circle cutter. You must carry out this method of lifting, adhering, and screwing drywall until you cover a ceiling row.

Following the first row, begin the next one at the edge of the wall. If there is a drywall installation over the window or door frames, remove it. Using a drywall saw or rotary drill, cut out the necessary section of drywall after fastening it around the door or window.

Ceiling

Step 1: Measure your drywall so its end falls on a strapping piece or joist by starting at a corner. Never let a drywall end piece hang free. Always utilize a strapping piece or joist to secure the final part of drywall.

Step 2: Before placing the drywall over any strapping or joists, apply a bead of glue along each one. Do this procedure before hanging the drywall. Starting from one side, lift the drywall panel upwards onto the ceiling. It would help if you placed the edges against the wall and perpendicular to the joist or strapping.

Step 3: Drill five screws into a single strapping or joist and the center of the drywall piece in a straight line. For every joist or strapping under the drywall, repeat this procedure. You should position the five screws equally. When driving screws, leave 12 inches (1.3 cm) along the edges. Avoid screwing too closely to the drywall's edge. Drive the screw heads beyond the drywall's top but avoid driving them through the surface altogether.

Step 4: Carry out this method of lifting, gluing, and screwing drywall until you cover one row of the ceiling. Start the following row next to the preceding row at the border of the wall but ensure the end joints are at least four feet away from the first row (1.2 m).

To Finish

Now, all there is to do is apply drywall compound coating to the area. You can coat it several times if you need, but you must do it evenly. You will need to sand the site, ensuring you do not do it excessively. You can then paint or match the drywall with your aesthetic style.

The Takeaway

Handling drywall is much easier when you know what you are doing. When you know what to do, you'll have the confidence to do the project. However, it is still best to work alongside a licensed expert who can provide a better perspective to address your needs.